Switched Wire

[section m]

I just received my new audio system for my bike today. I am planning on adding a fuse block to my bike so I can hook up my audio system and a different horn for my bike. I plan on putting a relay before my new fuse block so when I shut off the key it will be dead. I am stumped where to tap into a switched wire at. Some people say they tap into the brown wire that goes to the license plate light. Others say you need to go to the dark blue and white wire in the headlight assembly. I thought all the extra stuff I was adding needed to be off when I pushed the start button so it wouldn't fry the starter switch or the accesories. I heard the brown wire stays on when the start button is pushed and the dark blue/white wire shuts off when the button is pushed. Can I still use the brown wire and be alright or do I need to run a wire clear up to the headlight. These are the only to things I'm going to add to the bike and I will be done with the extra stuff. I have a 1300R.

[Big Bad]

Well this is a matter of opinion. I offer mine.

95% of the time you will see them talk of the starter switch burning out it is not the case. Maybe 3 or 4 people actually have had this as a fix for what was going on. Much like the ground fix. Copy and pasted so many times that it is the first thing people think about and try. With no resolve.

The greater truth is. The amperage we have running through the control circuit is a small amount. When the starter turns from the button being pressed the coil is energized on the relay. The current going to the starter has absolutely no change of going up to the handle bars.

People may be concerned that the amp or stereo my have enough voltage drop to your battery that the starter will not have enough capacitance to generate the electric field to turn the starter over?

Simple reach up and turn the stereo off. when you start it if its 30 degrees out and your battery is 6 years old and starting to show its age.

While i may be missing a important fact as to why it is necessary i look forward to hearing it if there is one..

But what i can tell you for sure is that when you wire this up (i would use the brown wire, tail lights) by creating a separate harness and fuse block and only tying into the tail lights for a signal on a relay you stand less change of added components creating a short and compromising 12hrs of work looking for a short in an added component or wires.

[Big Bad]

I am also hoping Dj and addicted will explain the importance of solder and shrink tube?

[DJHip]

Yup, brown wire. And Big B is correct, solder and shrink wrap is a good start but I use old winter coats I no longer wear and wrap that over my shrink tubes...






Here's what I'm working on right now:



I have diff accessories but you get the idea.


Peace

[section m]

Thanks for the replies. I will go ahead and use the brown wire if I can find it and not worry about frying anything.

[DJHip]

section m dude, check this link out:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

it'll make you feel better about wiring (as it did me )

[Big Bad]

Also there is a relay how to in the nsr garage and the top of the tech sticky. \

I am not the biggest fan of distribution blocks. Usually they are open and allow the wires to corrode or allow a short when they are no covered.

I usually like to fuse directly off the battery and do a tee splice soldierd with a spade connector. That wat you can easily remove the component or un plug it if it isn't working or shorted out so it won't comprimise the system.

Also the brown wire you are looking for is under the right side cover under a rubber boot. There is a bullet connector so the fender can be removed.
I really super suggest that you tie it into after the bullet. on the fender side of the plug. I never suggest tieing into the main hareness. Tie into the the smaller harnesses that are less expensive and easy to replace (like the fender harness) or the headlight harness, just flat not the main harness

[Sandman333]

This is the switched power lead I used for my cruise control.

http://www.bareasschoppers.com/acclead/

[DJHip]

sandman i was excited about that writeup but alas; "This lead does not exist on the VTX 1300..."


check this fuzeblock out:

http://www.motorcyclelarry.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=100_116&products_id=404

spendy, but sweeeet!!

[Sandman333]

Ah, sorry about that.

[DJHip]

Ah, sorry about that.

you'd better be mister

[jwcutler]

Not to be a worry wart, but...

Back in my Goldwing days (an '85 1200) bikes were having trouble with the stators going bad and if memory serves me correctly it was due to the stock main wiring harness being overloaded when owners starting wiring everything but the widescreen to their bikes. And this was an issue for the Goldwing, coming stock with radios and extra lights, etc.

Having experienced the joy of breaking down in St Peter, MN on my trip to Albuquerque and spending the rest of my vacation pulling the engine, replacing the stator, leaving for a weekend trip to salvage vacation and then changing a timing belt in a convenience store parking lot cause the wire guide did not get Locktite...you get the idea. Once bitten twice shy.

So the question is: Are there long term effects of adding all this stuff and does the prudent VTX owner need to take certain steps to avoid the above scenario?